Japan

Oh for the love of travel…

Lovely readers, travel is back on the agenda and I’m so excited! You see, I live to travel, I revel in writing, and Indulge Divulge, launched way back in 2013, has been the perfect platform for combining the two. Until COVID.

As we embraced lockdown I ‘pivoted’ (seriously, how could I not exploit the most overused word of that period huh?) to share hints and tips for living a life filled with elegance and passion via the blog’s additional topics; fuelled by your brilliant suggestions and feedback. From career inspiration to personal confessions, a sanity check during those dark days, and available via the menus should you wish to dive in.  But back to travel!

Indulge Divulge ignited the desire to jump off the tourist junket and explore and write about the lesser-known parts of the countries and cities I’ve had the privilege of visiting. Living with the locals in the fishing villages of Italy’s Cinque Terre; seeking the space invader tile montages tucked away in the back streets of Paris; marvelling at the soft hues of Florence; revelling in the Mediterranean sunsets on the Cote d’Azur; gasping in awe as Mt Fujiyama briefly peeked through her misty shroud; climbing the walls of Dubrovnik; singing wildly out of key with a Venetian gondolier… I could go on but that would be just too tossy. I’ll let my stories do the talking.

If you’ve been to those places yourself, a joyful reminder of your own experiences, potential inspiration if building your future travel agenda or simply a chance to vicariously enjoy my ramblings from the comfort of your sofas.

I’m already plotting the next journey and can’t wait to share and inspire again. Of course, my beloved Paris will again be on the agenda, accompanied by the silver fox; after all Paris – the city of lights – is also known as the city of love!

Stay tuned lovely readers, meanwhile enjoy a few blasts from the travel past…

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Japan – a spot of lyrical waxing…

So what was the highlight of your trip?’ Aargh! How often are we asked this question? Yearning to deliver a blow by blow reminisce supported by just 500 of your carefully curated photos; scrabbling to single out specifics, all the while wondering if the querist is genuinely curious or merely appeasing the post-holiday excitement emanating from your persona? A little of all I suspect lovely readers and being the gratuitous oversharing person that I am, I’ll oblige. With not one but three!

Given my little trip was a nine-day Japan Classics with an agenda as packed as a pub on a public holiday, and covering a mere fraction Japan has to offer – just being in a country where my grasp on the language being zero was a highlight. So too, experiencing the inhabitants treating their land, each other and you with the most profound respect. Where food presentation, delivery and consummation is an artform, slurping considered a compliment and chopstick placement significant. Where Mt Fuji, a deity, is referred to as shy, where deer bow for favours, temples abound, and blossoms have profound significance. Almost 100% literacy rate, unemployment at just 4%, the second lowest homicide rate in the world. What’s not to love?

Three Highlights

1) The ‘Symphony of Light’ Kimonos

Itchiku Kubota wanted to live to be 120. That how long the textile master estimated it would take him to complete his life’s work, a series of elaborately handcrafted kimonos, which, when hung side by side, will form a panorama celebrating the four seasons and the cosmos.

At the age of 14, Kubota began studying yuzen (rice-paste resist), six years later stumbling across a 350-year-old fragment of elegantly patterned cloth in the Tokyo National Museum. ‘Trembling in the face of such mastery and refinement’ he related, he stood transfixed for three hours. ‘I encountered a source of boundless creativity which revealed to me my calling’.

Later, incarcerated in a Siberian prisoner of war camp, he observed sunsets that he hoped one day to emulate on his kimonos using the technique he’d identified on that tiny piece of cloth – tsujigahana. A complicated method of tie-dyeing embellished with intricate embroidery, elaborate brush painting, sumi ink drawing and gold-leaf application. Post-release, 20 years attempting to replicate that lost art, Kubota eventually perfected his particular technique, referred to as ‘illusionary dyeing.

Each Kimono takes up to two years to complete, an atelier of artisans to help and 40 of his intended 80, called the ‘Symphony of Light’ can be found at the Itchiku Kubota Art Museum, a gallery he built to showcase the work. Hung side by side, the kimonos create a panoramic landscape, the intricacy of each taking my breath away. It will you too. His son continues the collection. Impressive!

2) Onsen Ryokan at the foot of Mt Fuji

Love bathing? Indulging in an Onsen (hot springs) ritual is absolutely sublime. One must enter entirely naked armed with just a small washcloth, perch on little stools with a shower hose and wooden bucket, soap and scrub up and, once squeaky-clean, only then enter the hot springs. Wallow, cool, rinse, repeat. My roof-top onsen faced Mt Fuji, shy as she was that eve, but I didn’t care for as the rain gently fell on my face, there was something deeply spiritual about losing all sense of self-consciousness and giving one’s self up to the meditative waters.

Post bathing, wrapped in yukata (a simple cotton belted kimono), toe socks and sporting wooden platform slippers, feasting and sipping saki while reclining languidly on tatami mats with fellow travellers made for weary relaxation, the day culminating in a deep sleep beneath soft feathers on floor bound futons. An experience unique to Japan and an absolute must. We stayed at the Fuji View Hotspring Spa Hotel and later, Biwako Hanakaido, Lake Biwa. As for Mt Fuji herself? There she was in all her glory the following sparkling bright morning. Breathtaking!

3) Miho Museum

Sure the museum houses ancient, priceless artefacts from Egypt, Western and Southern Asia, Greece, Rome and China collected by the founder Mihoko Koyama and at the time of our visit, a magnificent exhibit of masks, but it’s the approach to the museum that particularly enthralled.

Visitors travel down a walkway lined with cherry trees, pass through a tunnel (forcing their way through the myriad of folk kneeling to capture the cherry blossom reflection upon its steel lining), before emerging to cross a bridge leading to the museum. It’s a harmonious blend of architecture and natural beauty, built into a vibrant backdrop of seasonal colours and based on a sweet little story.

Architect I.M. Pei, yes the same man who built the glass pyramids at the Louvre in Paris, was inspired by the ethereal utopia described in an ancient Chinese work written by Tao Yuanming call the Taohua Yuan Ji (The Peach Blossom Spring).

Taohua Yuan Ji tells the tale of a fisherman who roams into a grotto after being drawn in by the fragrant scent of forest and peach blossom and, emerging from the other side, finds an idyllic village of inhabitants who all live joyfully and welcome him. Upon completion, Pei was surprised, and overwhelmed to discover he’d built his vision upon the actual site depicted in the book. Perfection! Miho Museum

 

So many more wonders to share, but I’d love to hear yours lovely readers – please drop your favourites in the comments box – Arigatou gozaimasu! (Thank you)

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Yukata, Ginza, Rickshaws and more…

Konichawa my lovelies! Been wandering amidst the blossoms, examining a palace, wallowing in hot springs, dining in Kimonos (Yukata), marvelling at the shy Mt Fuji, paying homage to the Healing Village, admiring the muscles on our Rickshaw man, scuttling across the crazy Shibuya four ways in the Harijuku, window shopping in the Ginza, searching for Robots. Yep! A tad busy this past 48 hours; fuelled of course with Udon, Ramen, Sashimi, Shabu-Shabu, Yakiniku and a whole raft of curious foods we’re yet to identify.

Now on the bullet train to Kyoto (then Biwako) hoovering a bento box, supping champers and silently marvelling at the chaos of the Tokyo we’ve left behind, the consistently faultless service and the historic complexity and scenic majesty that constitutes Japan. A few highlights (will update with interesting info when this crazy gig eases up)

Imperial Palace East Gardens – fabulous colour shows and serene koi ponds…

Mt Fujisan from Yoshida Kamiyoshida Hot Springs Hotel…

Lake Kawaguchi:

The Healing Village…

Kimono clad girls – loved these babes for both rocking fab colours and teaching us the differences between this gluten blob and that one – well dang my lovelies, it’s actually called ‘Dango’ – in Kamakura

Rickshaw man deserves a medal for lugging us around after yet another ridiculously lavish nosh, he earned his keep! Still in Kamakura.

The Shibyua in the Harijuku – you know that crazy busy intersection you see in movies and immediately identify with Tokyo? Yeah that one!

Ginza – the Champs Élysées, Maddison Avenue equivalent, where your credit card’s sphincter muscle kicks in, where hoons drag their Lamborghinis and cocktails cost $30 bucks.

Interesting snippets to come!

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