AT PLAY

For the home enhancers, the foodies, the wanderers

Two Cinque Terre Nonas…

Hello my lovely readers. It’s Jen and Jane (Fifi & Pixi Trixibelle from our former travels). We’ve just put our lives in the hands of a crazy Italian tour guide who has been issued with instructions to show us and our fellow companions the Cinque Terre region. For Fifi an extension of our previous visit, for Pixi a tad of familiarisation with her soon to be new home.

20130606-185842.jpgA minor setback…rain! Bucketing! When yesterday there was none, today necessitating brollies, raincoats, and hoodies and we have ’em all…just back in Florence. Fifi is NOT amused!

Two Nana raincoat purchases later, the vision of poor sad backpack bedraggled Fifi and Pixi quickly transgressed into fits of giggles and the need to emulate Quasi Modo…da bells! da bells!

20130606-185856.jpgWhile Fifi refuses to fight stairs in the pouring rain, Pix forges ahead to capture grey mist driven views of the usually vibrant hillside villages. Tiny softly muted houses clinging to cliff sides, boats bobbing in the turbulent harbour, fishermen waiting patiently for a break in the clouds, brightly coloured boats upturned and scattered across the rocks and slipway…the vision is beautifully raw, rugged and wild. Just imagine what it will look like on sunny days?

Fortunately, the day is saved by a lovely little crab linguini and a crisp white to wash it down in a little seaside restaurant, followed by Plan B…a visit to the pretty walled city of Lucca, which also happens to be the home of Pinnochio’s creator Carlo Lorenzini, better known by the pen name Carlom Collodi. Or his Mum’s home at least for apparently the jury’s still out on exactly which village can claim ownership. Bet ya didn’t know that!

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A long, glorious, wet, majestic day filled with the richness and vibrance of both the Tuscan and Ligurian regions, wrapped up with a warm shower back in Florence followed by a hearty dish and robust red wine to warm the chilled bones on this, my last moments with my dear friend before she returns to Australia, and I return to this village as I commence my sojourn (with my trusty nana raincoat)

Lonely Firenzian snapshots…

My traveling friend is winging her way home and I’m now on my own. Totally alone, a tad daunted and feeling misplaced in a sea of Italians and tourists. Determined to shed the ‘tourist’ label and become officially ‘local’ I head out with purposeful stride, a determined smile…and a list.

20130606-222451.jpgBuy train ticket for Monterosso and an Italian SIM card, a triple A battery for my Bose NC headphones (no you dirty minded persons, ‘they’ take size C!!), a ticket for The Accademia to later see Michelangelo’s Statue of David and generally wander…and what a lovely experience…

A thunderstorm without benefit of the three raincoats and two umbrellas back in the Hotel. No matter, it’s only water. Warm raindrops, hot paver steam, lightening. I’m afraid of lightening yet view it with disengaged curiosity. A 50 minute queue to buy train ticket at the Santa Maria Novella Salone Biglietti. No urgency, take your time, I’ve all the time in the world. And I do.

A young Italian couple 20130606-222239.jpgin heated hand gesturing argument. She walks away. He doesn’t follow…a relationship breakup with one witness…me. Tourists with brash American accents seeking off street leather outlets, gelato dripping down their arms. Mine’s in check.
Polizia gossiping on corners, Nigerians hawking umbrellas, women coveting jewelry on the Ponte Vecchio while their men sit patiently in nearby Ristorantes sipping beer and sweating over smoldering credit cards. Leather markets in full swing, the banter, the colours, the smell. Another couple, lips locked in passion oblivious to curious passers by. Observed break up now negated.

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20130606-222637.jpg Waiters spruiking punters to their Ristorantes only to studiously ignore them once seated. The pretty carousel in the Piazza Della Repubblica. The magnificent Duomo, marbled greens, pinks and whites freshly rain washed and sparkling to the thrill of photographers gathered around her base. My iconic compass for finding the way home.

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A classical guitarist, a comedian, a jazz trio, a singer, pavement chalkers, live statuettes all clamoring for attention, hawking their talents to win meagre coins from jaded tourists. Endless visual feasts and photo moments.

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Now officially exhausted, sipping a Chianti, fighting a persistent Pigeon for my Bruschetta while marveling at the ambient sunset bathing the city from my terrace table. Duomo bells ringing, swallows fluttering, I stroke the ladybug silver trinket on my leather wristlet, a testament to friendship and gifted by my dear traveling friend, and conclude…Florence really is a mighty fine place to commence a journey of discovery.

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Sombre at the Somme

Cross upon cross, headstone upon headstone, row upon row, so many etched with ‘Unknown20130602-184623.jpg Soldier’; monumental Memorials roll-calling the names of the thousands who can never be acknowledged with a cross or a headstone. Each site respectfully tended regardless of nationality interred, the Germans distinguished by grey crosses within a quiet field of their own. Like our own, they were just young men sent into the same bloody, senseless battles. Each one heartbreakingly young; seeing, experiencing and succumbing to horrors we can’t begin to imagine. But you probably know that anyway, a part of our ANZAC history…a raw, gut-wrenching sacrifice of human life.

Starting from Amiens we visited the 1918 battlefields at Villers-Bretonneux and an imposing Memorial commemorating nearly 11,000 Australians who died in France but have no known grave.

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From there to the village to visit the Franco-Australian Museum full of Australian photographs and memorabilia, then Pozières where so many Australians lost their lives over the summer months of 1916.

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Followed this with a visit to the Thiepval Memorial to the Missing – 72,000 British and South African men in this case. Also visited the Newfoundland Memorial Park at Beaumont-Hamel where we walked through the zigzag trenches still evident almost a century later. Oh my. We struggle to remain composed as our guide describes unimaginable scenes played out there.

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Also visited a special spot where Jenny’s Great Uncle was interred and where she planted a small 20130602-185214.jpgAustralian flag and memorial. So nice to recognise and acknowledge at least one of the so very many who sacrificed their lives on the Somme battlefields.

Initially ambivalent about the trip, rewarded with a whole new appreciation for the courage and bravery acknowledged, appreciated and respected by this little part of our world.

 

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