Scarlet Coats & Sparkling Stories

Meeting the Chelsea Pensioners over a well-earned G&T

Hey there lovely readers,

After an heroic day of sightseeing (the A to Z of inner London in one sweep, thank you very much), what else was there to do but collapse into a pub chair with a well-earned G&T? Enter stage left: the Chelsea Pensioners — sweet chaps in their elaborate scarlet coats, and absolute fonts of curious, often hilarious London lore.

Now, if you’ve never heard of them, allow me to introduce these living legends.

Who Are They?

Chelsea Pensioners are veteran soldiers of the British Army, over the age of 65, who now live at the Royal Hospital Chelsea — a grand retirement home founded in 1692 by King Charles II (who apparently thought veterans deserved better than being left to fend for themselves on London’s streets). And good on him.

Why the Red Coats?

The scarlet uniforms aren’t just for show. These iconic “red coats” date back centuries and ensure the Pensioners stand out wherever they go. Honestly, if you miss spotting one, you’ve had one too many G&Ts.

Community, Camaraderie & Continued Service

Life at the Royal Hospital isn’t about slowing down — it’s about living with purpose. The Pensioners are involved in parades, ceremonies, school visits, even TV appearances. They’re history in motion, still serving their community while swapping stories that make you want to buy them a pint just to hear more.

A Few Fun Snippets

• There are around 300 Chelsea Pensioners today, and every one of them has a tale or two from their service days.
• They’ve been spotted at everything from Trooping the Colour to the Chelsea Flower Show, their scarlet glory giving even the roses a run for their money.
• You can actually visit the Royal Hospital Chelsea — tours reveal its baroque beauty, leafy grounds, and the Pensioners themselves, who are often the best guides of all.

Why We Loved Meeting Them

For my crew — steeped in military heritage — chatting with the Chelsea Pensioners was like striking gold. For me? It was the mix of wit, wisdom, and that twinkle in their eye that said, “we’ve seen it all, and we’re still up for a laugh.”

So next time you see a flash of scarlet wandering through London, pause and tip your hat. These aren’t just uniforms — they’re walking, talking chapters of Britain’s story.

The Chelsea Pensioners
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Cannons, Captains & Clever Engineering

Portsmouth’s three warships that rewrote history in wood, sail, and steel.

Hello lovely readers,

If ever there was a place to step back through Britain’s naval story, it’s Portsmouth Historic Dockyard. Three ships — the Mary Rose, HMS Victory, and HMS Warrior — sit here side by side, spanning three centuries of courage, chaos, and clever engineering. They’re not just museum pieces, but living, breathing storytellers of the sea.

The Mary Rose

Built in 1510 and lost in 1545 defending England from the French, Henry VIII’s beloved Mary Rose lay silent beneath the Solent for over 400 years before being rediscovered in 1971. In 1982, the world held its breath as she rose from the water — a ghost ship brought back to life. Today she rests in her own gallery, reunited with thousands of artefacts that tell the tale of Tudor sailors who lived, worked, and perished aboard. Step inside and it’s not just timber and wax; it’s a time capsule of Tudor England, a story saved by science and saltwater grit.

Among the most touching finds: Hatch, the ship’s dog — discovered near the carpenter’s cabin and named after the hatch door under which he was found. Just 18–24 months old, Hatch was kept aboard as a ratter, chasing vermin below decks. Standing in the museum, looking at his delicate little skeleton, I was struck by how human the story suddenly became. It wasn’t just cannonballs and kings — it was the small companions who padded the decks, sharing the same fate as the men they lived alongside.

The Mary Rose remnants
Relics from the Mary Rose

HMS Victory

Then there’s Nelson’s HMS Victory, Trafalgar’s most famous warship and a floating fortress bristling with 104 guns. Hard to picture now, but 820 men once crammed into her decks, eating, sleeping, and working in stale air and hammocks strung where they could. As you wander her timbers, you trace the battle itself — punishments for unruly sailors, the horrors of Georgian battlefield medicine, and the very spots where history shifted.

One detail chills the most: the glint of a gold button on Nelson’s coat, catching the sun and a French sniper’s eye, changing the course of a battle and a life. That button survives, as does the bullet on display at Windsor Castle — two tiny objects that changed the course of history. On the Quarter Deck you’ll find a plaque marking where he fell, and deep below, a solitary lamp marks the Orlop deck where he died three hours later. Standing there, it wasn’t the thunder of cannons that stayed with me — it was the quiet weight of one shining button.

The Victory
Necessities on board the Victory
Nelson’s deathbed
The Victory

HMS Warrior

Fast forward to 1860, and the Victorians brought swagger to the seas with HMS Warrior, the world’s first iron-hulled, armoured warship. Larger, faster, and tougher than anything afloat, Warrior was a marvel of engineering — part battleship, part floating power statement. She never fired a shot in anger, but she didn’t need to; her iron presence alone made rivals rethink their fleets.

Walking her decks today, you glimpse both the bravado of Victorian innovation and the human side of service life — hammocks strung shoulder-to-shoulder, officers’ cabins with little comforts of home, and cavernous engine rooms where stokers once worked in furnace heat, shovelling coal in endless shifts. Those unsung men, sweating in the bowels of the ship, were the real heartbeat of Britain’s iron giant.

The Warrier
Below deck The Warrier

Three Ships, Big Battles & Small Lives

What struck me most about Portsmouth’s three warships wasn’t just their size or their role in history — it was the little, human details that quietly tugged at the heart. On the Mary Rose, it was Hatch, the young ship’s dog, curled forever near the carpenter’s cabin, reminding us that even Tudor sailors needed a loyal companion. On Victory, it was the glint of Nelson’s gold button, catching the sun and a sniper’s eye, changing the course of a battle and a life. And on Warrior, it was the invisible heat of the stokehold, where coal dust and sweat powered Britain’s iron giant — the unsung heroes never carved in marble.

Side by side, these ships tell the story of Britain’s naval might, but more than that, they whisper of the people (and pups!) who lived, fought, worked, and sometimes died aboard them. History isn’t just cannons, captains, and clever engineering — it’s the lives, big and small, that made them unforgettable.

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London’s Blinged up Beating Heart

Westminster – where the Houses of Parliament compete with Big Ben’s brand new bling

Hello, lovely readers!

After far too long, I’m back in full exploration mode — but this time with the silver fox, the gorgeous man I married last year. He’s the one I quoted the final line of Mary Oliver’s The Summer Day to:

“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”

His answer? “Exactly what we’re doing now — exploring this wild, beautiful world, with you. Starting right here!”

And so, here we are — beginning our UK adventure in the very heart of London: Westminster.

First Impressions

We’ve just popped out from the Tube into blazing sunshine and boom! Right there before us is Big Ben (actually The Elizabeth Tower – Big Ben’s the bell within) and the Houses of Parliament, sparkling after a recent city spruce-up for the coronation. It’s the sort of view that makes you stop in your tracks and say, “Jet lag? What jet lag? Time’s a wasting!.”


Our delightful hosts help forge the way through the throngs of tourists queuing to take selfies in front of Britain’s famous red phone booths, around the ubiquitous red double deckers and on to the quiet street that will be our home for the coming weeks. No time for naps, kit shed, comfy sneakers on, we launch straight into a ‘hood recon.


Westminster Abbey — But Not a Cathedral?

Despite what the postcards suggest, Westminster Abbey isn’t actually a cathedral. It’s a Royal Peculiar — a church under the direct jurisdiction of the monarch, not a bishop. The actual cathedral here is Westminster Cathedral, and it’s a dazzling surprise for first-time visitors. And that’s the big G, the silver fox!

Westminster Cathedral — Bold and Beautiful

Forget Gothic spires — this striped beauty is Neo-Byzantine glamour at its best, built between 1895 and 1903. With massive towers and marble floors, it feels like a mix between Venice and Istanbul. Its 87-metre bell tower is the tallest church tower you can climb in the UK — and yep, the views are worth the climb.

We were surprised to see that inside, large sections are left bare brick, intentionally unfinished so that future generations can add their own artistry. It’s a rare, living work-in-progress.

Oh! And if you’re a music lover, take note: the cathedral’s choir is world-famous, and Pope Benedict XVI even attended a service here. We recommend attending Evensong, the acoustics are spectacular!

Of course we wrap the day with a perfectly crisp Gin & Tonic in a typical British Pub and settle down for a long overdue catch up with C and A, our lovely hosts. Aussies themselves, here for a work post and packed with the knowledge of true locals. They’d already stocked us up with Tube apps, and all things designed to keep the ball rolling as we launch into three weeks of exploration.

Quirky Westminster Facts You’ll Love
  • Britain’s Oldest Door – lives in Westminster Abbey. Oak, circa 1050 and still hanging in its original frame.
  • Graffiti on the Coronation Chair — schoolboys from the 1700s and 1800s couldn’t resist carving their names into this royal relic.
  • The World’s Shortest War — Zanzibar surrendered after 38 minutes in 1896, following a British declaration from Westminster’s Foreign Office.

Why Westminster Feels Like the Heart of London

Wow! It’s more than grand buildings and famous names — Westminster is a living museum of ceremony, tradition, and little surprises. Walk a few minutes in any direction, and you’ll stumble onto something with a story to tell.

And that’s exactly what this trip will be about — the grand and the unexpected, stitched together into a map of memories.

 

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