Jane’s new addiction…

October 8, 2013

Uh! oh! I have an addiction. Correction. Another addiction (yes, yes there’s that wine one, and the chocolate one, and the…oh shut up!). This one’s to do with Passages. Parisian ones.

Determined to report in on the lesser known experiences Paris has to offer, suffice to say I was absolutely thrilled to find these hidden gems. This particular one reminded me of the fabulous Queen Victoria Building in Sydney. The Passage du Grand Cerf, again full of delightful surprises (see previous post ‘Loving Parisian Passages’) absolutely enchanted…

Restored to its former glory a few years ago and off the usual tourist track which means it wasn’t crowded, rarely is they say despite the myriad of tempting shops within. Gorgeous Florist Marie Stark, contemporary jeweler Eric et Lydie (apparently originally discovered by Christian Lacroix) and more with très intriguing display props. Particularly enamored with a cocktail umbrella wreath (may press that idea into action for Xmas, accompanied by a steady stream of actual cocktails).

Home wares store La Corbeille for unusual finds including storm umbrellas and Pour Vos Beaux Yeux for vintage eyewear. Loved L’Illustre for cute and clever prints and right next door to a store full of gorgeous silks and wool and a dear little vintage pram housing bolts of fabric. As’art for cool African goodies and the particularly eclectic Richshaw full of twee antique pieces, from delicate door knobs and bicarb lamps to ancient decorative tins and classic comics.

The bonus? Stepped out and onto the cutest pedestrian only rue Saint-Denis bursting with bars, Frommagerie, Boulangerie, Chocolatiers and a batch of uber coolly dressed Mums picking up tiny, chattering tots from the local crèche sporting complete ‘Tartine et Chocolat boutique’ ensembles. Almost made me want one…a wine that is.

Also found an Escargot restaurant. It’s on my list for dining experiences as I’m positive I can manage those ‘slippery little suckers’ without taking an eye out.

Loving Parisian Passages…

October 8, 2013

Exploring the second layer of Paris requires the luxury of time and given I’ve done the touristy bits, am now on a mission to explore the Passages (see previous post ‘A second layer of Parisian finds). And you know what? Sometimes they just sneak up on you…

Passages Panoramas has numerous entrances and I just happened to find one as I popped out the other end of Passages Jouffroy and onto Boulevard Montmartre. Fortuitous indeed for this one is chock full of surprises. There are half a dozen philatelists’ shops but also several seriously hip wine bars: Les Racines for trendy vins naturels, Coinstot Vino for Italian vintages, and Le Diable Verre, a lounge bar where your feet will insist you wallow a while. Spent ages examining the fascinating collectables in Tombées du Camion, from curious plastic dolls to kitsch postcards, antique tin boxes and quirky door knobs.

Satisfied, a smug smirk on my face now, two Passages in one day. Eight to go.

A second layer of Parisian finds…

October 8, 2013

The town planners in Paris created a labyrinth of hidden passages across Paris in the late18th century and although many have fallen into disrepair or have been demolished over the years if you know where to look you can still, in the words of John Brunton ‘push back a doorway and walk into a fabulous belle époque arcade, a glittering art nouveau galerie or an ancient courtyard’. (The Guardian: 2012) Game on!

Found the Passages Jouffroy and felt like I’d literally been swept into the mid 19th century. Wandering through I came across a Paris version of Madame Tussauds (Grévin), fabulous old-fashioned toys in the Pain D’épices, antique walking sticks in Segas and at the end of the main passageway the petite entrance of the Hotel Chopin. Round the corner and into the second passage, a cutting-edge photography boutique called Photo Verdeau and the Librairie du Passage full of glorious art books. As well, lots of quaint restaurants and tea shops brimming with punters chowing down on their power meeting lunches.