Ponant

Sailing the Adriatic – a blogger’s pit stop diary

Dear Blog Diary…about this Athens – Venice cruise. How are we to share the excitement of seven days aboard a snazzy ship with Greek Island and Croatian pit stops when on board wifi is so damn satellite exy? FB snapshots backed up with a spot of diary musings for later free wifi gratuitous blog over-sharing natch! A good thing lovely readers for I suspect excessive complementary cocktails may just compromise a girl’s writing skills (sorry – not sorry). For the curious, here are the outcomes:

Tuesday: Throw the ropes off, good bye Athens, 4.30pm, 235 fellow passengers, heading for the Corinth Canal. Rather spech boat the Le Lyrical, brushing up on French, the ship’s first language. View the ship being gently guided through the canal by the ‘tiny tugboat that could’ on top deck. Accompanied by a Violinist. And French champagne. And a great deal of oh la la! Hit the cabin doona 11pm a little bit tipsy on excitement and exhaustion…and champers…and that nightcap in the piano bar.

Just a little curious about the Corinth Canal? Well the canal connects the Gulf of Corinth with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea. Cutting through the narrow Isthmus of Corinth, it separates the Peloponnesian peninsula from the Greek mainland, thus effectively making the former an island.

The canal is 6.4 kilometers in length, only 21.3 meters wide at its base, earth cliffs flanking either side reach up to 63 meters in height. A dream that dates back over 2000 years, finally accomplished 1893.  Ironically, aside from a few modest sized cruise ships like the Le Lyrial, the Corinth Canal is unserviceable to most modern ships. Damn fine place for bungy jumping though! There you go.

Wednesday: Anchor off Zakinthos, Greece. Leisurely breakfast on pool deck, board the shore excursion boat, wander around with vague intent on buying a hat, nope, shops closed, it’s siesta time. Substitute with a G&T or three, free wifi in a hip little cafe and a snap shot or two.

The interesting stuff: Inhabited from the Neolithic age. Homer, the famous Greek poet mentioned Zakynthos in his masterpieces the Iliad and the Odyssey. Lots of conquering along the way.

Tolmides, the Athenian military commander concluded an alliance with the Island between 446 and 459 BC during the First Peloponnesian War to source tar from the island’s lakes to protect the planking on their shipping fleet. Better than pitch which is made from pine trees.

And did you know that during Nazi occupation of Greece, the Mayor and Bishop at the time refused Nazi orders to turn in the town’s Jewish community for deportation to the death camps, instead hiding all 275 of them in rural villages. All survived.

Also prime nesting area for loggerhead sea turtles. Also known for the beautiful Navagio beach and limestone caves. We’ll be checking out similar tomorrow.

Finish day with cocktail of the day (Apple-Tizer), Captain’s own welcome cocktail (free for all – choices, choices!), Gala dinner in posh restaurant, check out the pianist (stardust memories), crash.

Thursday: Paxos ‘n Antipaxos smallest group of Ionian Islands, brilliant azure blue waters, pretty villages, wall to wall yachts, sunburnt snouts. 

First up fresh juice, bespoke omelette, coffee then grab ship provided Palms (fins) face-masks and snorkels, towels and water, slap on sunscreen and swim-suits and jump aboard a smaller boat to explore Paxos and Antipaxos. Limestone caves, startlingly clear aqua waters, beach pebbles that tickle underfoot, bombs straight off the back of the boat and a bunch of sun crazed water lovers making for a fun, pleasantly exhaustive day.

According to Greek mythology, Poseidon created the island by striking Corfu with his trident, so that he and wife Amphitrite could have some peace and quiet. Peaceful. Quiet. Poseidon nailed it.

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All aboard! 

The Le Lyrial. One of the French company Ponant’s fleet, a petite ship carrying maximum 235 passengers plus crew. And a mighty crew it is, 148 to be exact. Photographers, beauticians, cabin attendants and wait staff; Chefs (12), bar tenders, musicians and dancers, excursion managers and engineers; our ship’s captain Olivier Marien and a cluster of crisp white clad officers.

Captain Marien looks way too young but exudes an air of confidence that tells us we’re not likely to do a ‘Costa’ any time soon. Proven as he and his team steer the ship deftly through the Corinth Canal aided by just one small tug-boat, the walls so close you could reach out and caress their rough lime surfaces. A spectacular experience enhanced with champagne and the strains of an accomplished violinist. One classy boat this! Or should I say ‘Tout à fait magnifique!’

But first we board (Athens), settle in, oooh and ahhh, take photos of cabin, ocean, heck anything that doesn’t move, knowing full well post holiday photo audience are already stifling yawns. Attend recon in the ship’s theatre announced in both French and English followed by life vest exercise where voice in head wonders exactly what that bit might be for followed by another exclaiming ‘dragging you back out of the water idiot!’ Note six months worth of French classes flinging themselves overboard…sans vests.

Choose this eve’s restaurant, forward deck? Pool deck? Decisions, decisions. Instead settle on sipping cocktail of the day up top while toning down slightly bogan voice in head screaming ‘Free alcohol? I LOVE this ship!’ Gazing at the French flag wafting gently in a softly muted sunset breeze, accompanied by a jazz singer with thigh gap and slinky Sade moves, I pause to admire the stippled wash of the ship’s wake. Reminds me of Wagu steak, fine dining tonight it is. Pinch self. My trusty travel bud Jen exclaims ‘If a girl’s gotta do a cruise, might as well do it in style yeah?’ A toast to her for choosing this gig. And to the coming days. And to…us…and you.


Now dedicated readers listen up. Dodgy ocean faring wifi will require temporary default to brief Facebook brags for fam and friends keen to enjoy a day by day account of Greek Island and Croatian onshore gigs. For those keen to learn more or contemplating a similar cruise, stay tuned for one biggie blog sharing a tad more detail, straight to you from our disembarking destination (Venice).

Bon voyage to me, love to youuuu! X

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